Extraction and Characterization of Essential Oil from Ginger for Formulation of Perfume

Extraction and Characterization of Essential Oil from Ginger for Formulation of Perfume

Abstract

This study extracts, characterize essential oil from ginger and formulates perfume using the ginger oil with other essential oil as the fragrance. The oil was extracted from ginger using the solvent extraction method and was accurately characterized. The parameter used for characterization and their values are as follows Acid Value- 7.293%, free fatty acid-3.6465ml, saponification value 483.8625mlequ/kg, specific gravity o.9417g/ml, peroxide value 9m/equ/kg, Iodine value 0.3mgNaoH/g and refractive index 1.4642. The percentage yield of the oil is 7% i.e 1.5kg of dry ginger yields 120ml of oil. The perfume was formulated by dissolving perfume ingredients including ginger oil in ethyl alcohol and allowed to age for two weeks. Perfume formulation has rose oil as the top note, ginger oil as the middle note and lavender oil as the base note. Ethyl alcohol became the vehicle having a value of 80%. Other ingredients used in the formulation have their values as follow; rose oil 3.5%, ginger oil 6%, lavender oil 3.5%, Avon oil 2%, coumarin 3%, fixative 1%, vitamin E 1% “Eau de parfum” (A type of perfume) was produced. Comparisons with the champion (a market perfume) show little variation between the two perfumes though the ginger perfume is still within S.O.N’s standard for perfume. The perfume is recommended to lovers of perfume those whose use is to improve their body scent.

TABLE OF CONTENT

TITLE PAGE… i

APPROVAL PAGE… ii

DEDICATION… iii

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT… iv

ABSTRACT… v

TABLE OF CONTENT vi

LIST OF FIGURES… x

LIST OF TABLES… xi

CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background 1

1.2 Lemongrass… 3

1.3 Statement of problem… 5

1.4 Objective of project 6

1.5 Justification/significance of project 6

1.6 Scope of work… 6

1.7 Uses of perfume 7

CHAPTER TWO

LITERATURE REVIEW

2.1 Historical development of perfume 8

2.2 Perfume concentration 10

2.3 Perfume notes… 11

2.4 Sources of perfume 12

2.4.1 Aromatic source… 12

2.4.2 Synthetic source 15

2.5 Essential oil 16

2.6 Chemical constituents of essential oil 20

2.6.1 Hydrocarbons… 21

2.6.2 Terpenes 21

2.6.3 Alcohols… 24

2.6.4 Aldehydes… 24

2.6.5 Acids… 25

2.6.6 Esters… 25

2.6.7 Ketones 25

2.6.8 Lactones 26

2.7 Treatments and purification of essential oil 27

2.8 Storage of essential oil 28

2.9 perfume extraction methods… 28

2.9.1 Extraction 29

2.9.2 Distillation 30

2.9.3 Expression 34

2.9.4 Enfleurage… 35

2.10 Formulation of perfumes… 35

2.11 Lemongrass… 36

2.12 Lemongrass oil 39

2.12.1 Origin of lemongrass oil 39

2.12.2 Properties of lemongrass oil 39

2.12.3 Chemical composition of lemongrass oil 39

2.12.4 Extraction 40

2.14.5 Uses of lemongrass oil 40

CHAPTER THREE

MATERIALS AND METHODS

3.1 Sample source and preparation 42

3.2 Apparatus and solvents. 42

3.3 Solvent extraction method… 43

3.4 Enfleurage Method 44

3.5 Hydrodistillation Method… 45

3.6 Formulation of perfumes 46

CHAPTER FOUR

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

4.1 Solvent extraction method… 47

4.2 Enfleurage extraction method… 48

4.3 Hydrodistillation method… 49

CHAPTER FIVE

CONCLUSION… 51

RECOMMENDATION… 52

REFERENCE… 53

APPENDIX… 52

LIST OF TABLES

Table 4.1 Result of solvent extraction method… 45

Table 4.2 Result of enfleurage method… 46

Table 4.3 Result of hydrodistillation method… 47

Table 4.4 Result of essential oil extraction 48

LIST OF FIGURES

Fig 2.1 Solvent extraction technique… 32

Fig 3.1 Fresh lemongrass leave… 42

Fig 3.2 Experimental setup for Liquid-liquid extraction 44

CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION

1.1 Background

Perfume is a fragrant liquid made from an extract that has been distilled in alcohol and water.

Since the beginning of recorded history, humans have attempted to mask or enhance their odour by using perfume, which emulates nature’s pleasant smells. Many natural and man-made materials have been used to make perfume to apply to the skin and clothing, to put in cleaners and cosmetics, or to scent the air. Because of differences in body chemistry, temperature, and body odours, no perfume will smell the same on any two people.

Perfume comes from the Latin “per” meaning “through” and “fume,” or “smoke.” Many ancient perfumes were made by extracting natural oils from plants through pressing and steaming. The oil was then burned to scent the air. Today, most perfume is used to scent bar soaps. Some products are even perfumed with industrial odorants to mask unpleasant smells or to appear “unscented.”

While fragrant liquids used for the body are often considered perfume, true perfumes are defined as extracts or essences and contain a percentage of oil distilled in alcohol.

A perfume is composed of three notes. The base note is what a fragrance will smell like after it has dried. The smell that develops after the perfume has mixed with unique body chemistry is referred to as the middle note. And the top note is

the first smell experienced in an aroma. Each perfumery has a preferred perfume manufacturing process, but there are some basic steps. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume. The top note consists of small light molecules that evaporate quickly. The middle note forms the heart of the main body of a perfume and acts to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes.

Traditionally perfumes were made from plant and animal substances and prepared in the form of waters, oils, unguents, powders, and incense. This last method of fragrance gives us our word ‘perfume’ which means ‘to smoke through. Most modern perfumes are alcohol-based and contain synthetic scents. While the term ‘perfume’ usually refers to fragrances in general, in the more technical language of the perfumer, a perfume must contain over 15% of fragrance oils in alcohol.

The preferred fragrances for perfumes are by no means universal but differ according to cultural dictates and fashions. In the sixteenth century, for example, pungent animal scents such as musk and civet were very popular. In the nineteenth century, by contrast, such animal scents were generally considered too crude, and light floral fragrances were favoured.

Perfumes were held in high esteem and widely employed in the ancient world. The wealthy would perfume not only the body but their furnishings and their favourite horses and dogs. On ancient altars, perfumes were offered to the gods, while in the

kitchens of antiquity the same scents — Saffron, Cinnamon, Rose, Myrrh — might be used to flavour food and wine.

Techniques involved in perfume extraction from plants include; solvent extraction, distillation and effleurage method. These methods to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds that are obtained from the raw materials.

The important thing concerning perfume making is that there are three key ingredients you will need to produce perfume:

1. Essential Oils (these have been extracted from various plants (organic or non-organic) and when combined give the smell of the perfume you are trying to produce.

2. Pure Grain Oil

3. Water

1.2 LEMONGRASS

Family: Poaceae (Gramineae), Cymbopogon species

The genus has about 55 species, most of which are native to South Asia, Southeast Asia and Australia. Two major types have considerable relevance for commercial use: East Indian lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus ) is native to India, Sri Lanka, Burma and Thailand, whereas West Indian lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is assumed to originate in Malaysia. The plants grow in dense clumps up to 2 meters in diameter and have left up to 1 meter long. Further Cymbopogon martini (Roxb.) J.F. Watson var. martini, which is native to India and cultivated in Java is

worth mentioning as it also grows in Bhutan and is extracted for palmarosa oil. Another species with commercial relevance is citronella grass (Cymbopogon winterianus Jowitt) which also stems from India but is today grown throughout the tropics.
The reported life zone for lemongrass is 18 to 29 degrees centigrade with annual precipitation of 0.7 to 4.1 meters with a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.8 (East Indian) or 4.3 to 8.4 (West Indian). The plants need a warm, humid climate in full sun. They grow well in sandy soils with adequate drainage. Since the plants rarely flower or set seed, propagation is by root or plant division. The plants are harvested mechanically or by hand about four times each year with the productive populations lasting between four and eight years Extensive breeding programs have developed many varieties of lemongrass.

The quality of lemongrass oil is generally determined by the content of citral, the aldehyde responsible for the lemon odour. Some other constituents of the essential oils are -terpineol, myrcene, citronellol, methyl heptenone, dipentene, geraniol, limonene, nerol, and farnesol. West Indian oil differs from East Indian oil in that it is less soluble in 70 per cent alcohol and has a slightly lower citral content.

Lemongrass is used in herbal teas and other nonalcoholic beverages in baked goods, and confections. Oil from lemongrass is widely used as a fragrance in perfumes and cosmetics, such as soaps and creams. Citral, extracted from the oil, is used in flavouring soft drinks in scenting soaps and detergents, as a fragrance in perfumes and cosmetics, and as a mask for disagreeable odours in several industrial products. Citral is also used in the synthesis of ionones used in perfumes and cosmetics.

As a medicinal plant, lemongrass has been considered a carminative and insect repellent. West Indian lemongrass is reported to have antimicrobial activity. Oil of West Indian lemongrass acts as a central nervous system depressant. Oil of East Indian lemongrass has antifungal activity. The volatile oils may also have some pesticide and mutagenic activities. Cymbopogon nardus is a source of citronella oil. Cymbopogon martinii is reportedly toxic to fungi.

1.3 STATEMENT OF PROBLEMS

The problem of the perfume extraction process is the distortion of the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials. This is due to heat, harsh solvents and also through the exposure to oxygen which will denature the aromatic compounds. These will either change their odour, character or render them odourless.

The problem of formulation of perfume involves knowing the proportion in which essential oil and other materials to be mixed to avoid skin irritation and increase the intensity and longevity of the perfume.

Most imported perfumes are synthetic odorant that is not pure chemical substances but is a mixture of organic compounds that are harmful when applied.

There are limited perfume plants, from which perfume can be made; this can lead to the importation of perfume thereby causing the decline of foreign reserves and unemployment.

1.4 OBJECTIVE OF PROJECT

The main objective of this project is to extract and formulate perfume from Lemongrass (CYMBOPOGON flexuous).

1.5 JUSTIFICATION/SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

This project focuses on the production of perfumes from natural/plant sources as against synthetic chemicals thereby will reduce any side effects resulting from synthetic chemicals.

The success of this work will stimulate the development of the perfume industry locally because of available, cheap raw materials.

More jobs will be created by those that will be engaged in planting/cultivating the plant as well as establishing small scale extraction plants.

There will be a reduction in the resources spent on the importation of lemongrass fragrance by end-users.

1.6 SCOPE OF THE WORK

This project work is on how perfumes are extracted and formulated from lemongrass. It further entails;

o The synthetic and aromatic sources of perfumes.

o The composition of perfumes and their concentration

o The extraction methods and formulation process involved

o The economic importance of lemongrass and the uses of lemongrass oil in the perfume production process.

1.7 USES OF PERFUMES

1) The sense of smell is considered a right-brain activity, which rules emotions, memory and creativity.

2) Perfumes are used to mask body odour.

3) Used to make people feel good.

4) To heal and cure physical and emotional problems.

5) Perfumes are being revived to help balance hormonal and body energy.

6) It helps to bolster the immune system when inhaled or applied topically.

7) Smelling sweet smells also affects one’s mood and can be used as a form of psychotherapy.

8) Perfumes are being created to duplicate the effect of pheromones and stimulate sexual arousal receptors in the brain.

REFERENCES

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Ammon, D.G., Barton, A.F.M. and Clarke, D.A., (1986). Essential Oils Introduction and Evolution, Pp 77-90.

Atal,C.K., and B.L. Bradu. (1976). Search for Aroma Chemicals of Industrial Value from Genus Cymbopogon (Jammu lemongrass), a New Superior Source of Citral. Indian Journal of Pharmacy Pp 38: 61-63.

Brophy JJ, Lassak EV & Toia (1985). The Steam Volatile leaf Oil of Lemongrass’’ Planta Medica, Pp 51: 170-171.

Calkin, Robert R., Jellinek, and J. Stephen (1994). Perfumery: Practice and Principles. John Wiley & Sons.

Camps, Arcadi Boix (2000). Perfumery Techniques in Evolution. Allured Pub Corp. Pp 101-120

Edwards, Michael (2006). Fragrances of the World 2006. Crescent House Publishing. Pp 50: 90-100